Japanese layering is a skincare ritual that includes 7 to 10 steps, practiced daily by the Japanese to maintain beautiful, natural skin at any age.
If the number of steps might seem excessive, it’s because it stands in stark contrast to the Western approach to skincare, which often involves searching for a miracle product and using makeup to achieve the desired look.
However, layering has also proven its worth in Europe, where Korean beauty (K-beauty) and Japanese beauty (J-beauty) rituals have been gaining popularity in recent years. While the brands and ingredients used may vary, the daily miracle happens not because of the product itself, but due to the understanding of one’s skin, the technique, and the order in which products are applied.
Thus, whether Japanese or Korean, layering is primarily about understanding your skin, its structure, and its needs. Koreans excel in creativity and innovation, creating products that deliver instant results (although not always long-lasting). The Japanese, on the other hand, focus on treatments that harmoniously blend traditional Japanese ingredients with modern cosmetic discoveries. It is an ode to slowness, prevention, and repetition. An active meditation practiced twice a day that yields lasting results within a few weeks.
1. Double Cleansing
The first step of layering involves cleansing the skin thoroughly yet gently, to rid it of all impurities accumulated throughout the day. This promotes its regeneration during the night and makes it more receptive to active ingredients. While perfectly clean skin helps prevent clogged pores and oxidation, it’s important not to be too harsh on the skin. For this reason, cotton pads and micellar waters are not favored for cleansing, as they are considered too aggressive. Instead, a faster and much more effective method is preferred: double cleansing.
Step 1 - Oil
To remove makeup, dust, sebum, and pollution, choose an oil-based product (oil, balm, or milk) and gently massage your skin with your fingertips. There’s nothing better for lifting impurities without damaging your skin.
Step 2 - Water
In the past, when Japanese women used unrefined oils to remove makeup, they needed soap (a surfactant) to remove the oil. Today, brands have incorporated surfactants directly into milks, balms, and oils to make them easier to use. So, simply emulsify the cleanser with lukewarm water to remove the oil. Massage your skin with your fingers or a konjac sponge, and rinse your face.
If you still prefer using soap or a cleansing gel afterward (as many Japanese women do), choose a gentle product and don’t undo your gentle efforts by rubbing your face with a towel to dry it. Instead, pat the towel against your skin—it works just as well!
WHEN: Every evening
2. Exfoliation (optional)
Despite daily cleansing, a layer of dead skin cells naturally forms on the skin's surface; this is called the stratum corneum. This layer not only clogs pores and dulls the complexion, but it also prevents treatments from penetrating the dermis. Therefore, the second step of layering involves exfoliating this layer weekly, following the same philosophy as before: gently!
WHEN: In the evening, once a week
3. The Lotion
A skincare lotion is an essential step! Many Japanese people don’t understand why Westerners don’t use it, as it not only provides numerous benefits but also significantly enhances the effectiveness of active treatments.
Skin that is saturated with water (a skincare lotion is primarily composed of water or floral hydrosol) acts like a sponge. It becomes soft, plump, and able to deeply absorb treatments rich in active ingredients (such as essences and serums). It is beneficial for all skin types, as it helps reduce fine dehydration lines while balancing combination skin that overproduces sebum to protect against dehydration.
You can apply it with a cotton pad to remove any remaining impurities or directly with your hands by pressing them against your skin to allow the lotion to penetrate. Skincare expert Chizu Saeki suggests applying water and lotion-soaked compresses to the skin daily for a few minutes to achieve optimal hydration. The choice is yours!
WHEN: Morning and evening
4. Serums and Essences - Deep Skin Care
While cleansing and lotion are essential for the well-being of our urban skin, the serum is not absolutely necessary, yet the Japanese love it.
This targeted treatment, with its fine molecular weight, penetrates deeply into the dermis (which has been prepared by the lotion) to provide localized and deep care. Flawless skin can do without it, but if you have a specific concern (spots, sagging, dry patches, imperfections, scars, dullness, roughness...), the serum will be your best ally!
The essence is lighter and more watery than the often oily or creamy serum. Apply the active ingredient right after the lotion to boost its effectiveness.
WHEN: Morning and evening
MOISTURIZERS:
ANTI-AGING:
ANTI-PIGMENTATION:
ANTI-IMPERFECTIONS:
5. The Mask (optional)
The mask step, like exfoliation, is weekly but not essential. Whether in the form of a sheet mask (cloth soaked in lotion/serum) or a cream/gel, the mask is applied to the face for 10 to 30 minutes. All masks are hydrating, but you can target other concerns by choosing specific ingredients. This is a 2-in-1 step that replaces both lotion and serum!
WHEN: Evening
ULTRA HYDRATING RUHAKU SHEET MASK
5 individual masks made of organic cotton soaked in a creamy hydrating emulsion
LULULUN MOIST + 45 SHEET MASKS
32 daily masks to restore hydration and elasticity to mature skin lacking firmness
6. Eye Contour
The eye contour is a delicate and demanding area. The skin is much thinner there and, therefore, more prone to dehydration and the appearance of fine lines. However, heavy treatments in large quantities only worsen the appearance of puffiness and wrinkles by weighing down the tissues. Thus, it is important to choose a lightweight, active-rich treatment like an essence and apply it with your fingertips, tapping to stimulate blood circulation.
WHEN: Morning and evening
7. The Oil
Once the skin is cleansed, hydrated, and treated, the next step is to apply an oil to ‘lock in’ the moisture and prevent the water-based treatments that we’ve carefully applied from evaporating into the air.
The oil also helps nourish the dermis and provides comfort to skin lacking suppleness. Choose a light, non-comedogenic oil with ingredients that meet your needs.
WHEN: Evening
8. The Massage
Applying oil (or a rich cream) is the perfect time to practice facial massage, a well-kept Japanese beauty secret! Daily massage, in addition to being a natural facelift, brings a lot of radiance to the skin by stimulating lymphatic drainage, which helps remove toxins that dull the complexion!
WHEN: Morning and evening
9. The Moisturizing Cream
It comes last in the Japanese skincare ritual, and it is often the only step in the Western routine. The cream, with its large molecular weight, provides little water to the skin and does not penetrate deeply. Its role is simply to create a barrier that prevents internal moisture from evaporating, while also limiting the introduction of external elements such as pollution and dust.
WHEN: Morning
Now you have all the keys to understanding your skin and the wide range of treatments available to you. It's up to you to choose what best suits your needs to rebalance your skin and improve its quality.
However, don't forget that your skin is also influenced by your lifestyle and diet.
You can also check out our article on Japanese beauty through diet!
