Le guide du layering - Rituel de beauté japonais
Le guide du layering - Rituel de beauté japonais
beauté Dossier Beauté

Japanese Layering Guide - A Step into a Rare Beauty Ritual

The Bijo guide; To understand japanese layering and practice it on a daily basis as well as our selection of Japanese care for your layering ritual.

| 18 min read
Journal

The Complete Guide to Japanese Layering

Japanese layering is a facial skincare ritual made up of 7 to 10 steps, practiced daily in Japan to maintain naturally beautiful skin at every age.

While the number of steps may seem surprising, it is perhaps because it is the opposite of the Western approach to skincare, which often focuses on finding a miracle product and using makeup to create the desired appearance.

Yet layering has also proven successful in Europe, where Korean (K-beauty) and Japanese (J-beauty) skincare rituals have become increasingly popular over the past few years. Although the brands and ingredients may differ, the real transformation comes from understanding your skin, applying the right techniques, and respecting the correct order of application—not from a single miracle product.

Whether Japanese or Korean, layering is above all about understanding your skin, its structure, and its needs. Korean skincare is renowned for its innovation and its ability to create products with immediate (though not always long-lasting) results. Japanese skincare, on the other hand, harmoniously combines traditional Japanese ingredients with the latest advances in cosmetic science. It is a philosophy of patience, prevention, and consistency—a mindful ritual practiced twice a day that delivers lasting results after just a few weeks.

1. (Double) Cleansing

The first step of Japanese layering is to cleanse the skin thoroughly yet gently, removing all the impurities accumulated throughout the day. This promotes overnight skin regeneration and prepares the skin to better absorb active ingredients. While perfectly cleansed skin helps prevent clogged pores and oxidation, cleansing should never compromise the skin barrier. For this reason, cotton pads and micellar waters are generally not favored, as they can be too harsh. Instead, the preferred method is just as quick and significantly more effective: double cleansing.

Step 1 – Oil-Based Cleanser

To remove makeup, dust, excess sebum, and pollution, choose an oil-based product (oil, balm, or cleansing milk) and gently massage your skin with your fingertips. Nothing removes impurities more effectively while respecting the skin.

Step 2 – Water-Based Cleansing

In the past, Japanese women used pure plant oils to remove makeup, which required soap (a surfactant) afterward to remove the oil. Today, surfactants are already incorporated into cleansing oils, balms, and milks, making them much easier to use. Simply emulsify the cleanser with lukewarm water to dissolve the oil, massage your skin with your fingers or a konjac sponge, then rinse thoroughly.

If you still prefer to follow with a facial soap or cleanser (as many Japanese women do), choose a gentle formula. And don't undo your efforts by rubbing your face dry with a towel—simply pat your skin dry instead.

WHEN: Every evening

Cleansing Oil — RUHAKU

Cleansing Oil — RUHAKU

An organic cleansing oil that removes makeup and sunscreen. Its botanical extracts also provide gentle exfoliating benefits, making it suitable for dull skin or skin prone to clogged pores.

Cleansing Jelly — Curél

Cleansing Jelly — Curél

A cleansing jelly designed to remove makeup and sunscreen while minimizing friction. It is especially suitable for dry and sensitive skin.

Regena Nourishing Cleansing Oil — Waphyto

Regena Nourishing Cleansing Oil — Waphyto

A lightweight, sensorial cleansing oil that removes makeup, sunscreen, and impurities accumulated throughout the day.

Rice Ferment Cleansing Balm — Bizen

Rice Ferment Cleansing Balm — Bizen

Its balm texture melts into an oil to dissolve even long-wearing makeup, excess sebum, and sunscreen while allowing for an extended facial massage.

Moisturizing Rice Ferment Soap — Bizen

Moisturizing Rice Ferment Soap — Bizen

Bijo;'s best-selling cleanser and winner of the 2026 Bijo; Beauty Award in the Cleanser category, this soap creates a rich, luxurious foam. It pairs perfectly with the Bizen Cleansing Balm in the Double Cleansing Set.

Japanese Silk Soap — Cokon Lab

Japanese Silk Soap — Cokon Lab

A solid soap with a soft, creamy lather inspired by Japanese silk craftsmanship.

Regena Foaming Cream — Waphyto

Regena Foaming Cream — Waphyto

A botanical foaming cleanser with a luxurious sensorial texture. It pairs beautifully with Regena Nourishing Cleansing Oil or is available in the Waphyto Discovery Set.

Gentle Clarifying Soap — RUHAKU

Gentle Clarifying Soap — RUHAKU

A natural soap enriched with clay and Okinawan gettou that purifies the skin without leaving it feeling stripped. The RUHAKU Foaming Net helps create a dense, airy foam.

Natural Konjac Sponge — Makanai

Natural Konjac Sponge — Makanai

A konjac sponge that complements cleansing with gentle mechanical exfoliation. It should always be fully soaked before use.

2. Exfoliation (Optional)

Even with daily cleansing, a layer of dead skin cells naturally forms on the skin's surface. This is known as the stratum corneum. Besides dulling the complexion and clogging pores, it also reduces the penetration of skincare products. The second step of layering is therefore to exfoliate the skin weekly—always following the same philosophy: gently.

WHEN: In the evening, once a week

10 Exfoliating Silk Cocoons — Cokon Lab

10 Exfoliating Silk Cocoons — Cokon Lab

Natural silk cocoons designed for targeted, ultra-gentle mechanical exfoliation.

SUVÉ Facial Exfoliating Brush — SHAQUDA

SUVÉ Facial Exfoliating Brush — SHAQUDA

A handcrafted natural-bristle facial brush designed for occasional use with light pressure.

Skin Refining Gel — IREN Shizen

Skin Refining Gel — IREN Shizen

An exfoliating gel that helps remove dead skin cells and excess sebum during massage without abrasive particles.

3. Lotion

A treatment lotion is an essential step. Many Japanese people are surprised that Western skincare routines often skip it because, beyond its many benefits, it dramatically improves the effectiveness of active skincare products.

Skin saturated with moisture (a treatment lotion is primarily composed of water or floral hydrosols) behaves like a sponge. It becomes plump, soft, and capable of absorbing concentrated treatments such as essences and serums much more effectively. It benefits every skin type by softening dehydration lines while also helping rebalance combination skin that produces excess sebum to compensate for dehydration.

You can apply it using a cotton pad to remove the last traces of impurities, or simply pour it into your hands and gently press it into the skin. Japanese skincare expert Chizu Saeki also recommends applying cotton pads soaked in lotion and water as a daily mini-mask for several minutes to maximize hydration. The choice is yours.

WHEN: Morning and evening

Hydrating & Regenerating Lotion — RUHAKU

Hydrating & Regenerating Lotion — RUHAKU

Perfects cleansing while delivering antioxidant and soothing botanical ingredients.

Regena Lotion Serum - Waphyto

Regena Lotion Serum - Waphyto

A comforting lotion serum for regenerating hydration

Eau de Ki Hydrating Lotion

Eau de Ki Hydrating Lotion

A purifying, hydrating and repairing elixir with anti-aging benefits

Rice Ferment Hydrating Lotion - Bizen

Rice Ferment Hydrating Lotion - Bizen

A lotion serum enriched with rice ferment

Decorté's Double Hydration Ritual

For a Japanese-inspired "glass skin" effect, embrace double hydration. This iconic duo is the secret of many Japanese women for smooth, plump and radiant skin every day.

DECORTE AQ Absolute Treatment Micro Radiance Emulsion II - Rich

DECORTE AQ Absolute Treatment Micro Radiance Emulsion II - Rich

Softens the skin and restores its lipid balance.

DECORTE AQ Absolute Treatment Hydrating Lotion II - Rich

DECORTE AQ Absolute Treatment Hydrating Lotion II - Rich

Deeply hydrates while leaving the skin supple and radiant.

4. Serums & Essences – The Heart of Your Skincare Routine

While cleansing and lotion are essential steps for keeping urban skin healthy, a serum is not strictly necessary... and yet, in Japan, it is one of the most cherished steps of the skincare ritual.

A true targeted treatment, a serum stands out thanks to its high concentration of active ingredients and its lightweight molecular structure, allowing it to penetrate deeply into the skin once it has been prepared with lotion. Perfectly balanced skin may not need one, but as soon as concerns appear—pigmentation spots, loss of firmness, localized dryness, blemishes, scars, dullness or rough texture—a serum becomes a valuable ally for targeted and effective care.

An essence, on the other hand, has an even lighter, more watery texture than a serum, which is often oil-based or creamy. It is applied immediately after the lotion to optimize the absorption of active ingredients and enhance the performance of the skincare products applied afterward.

In Japanese layering, there are several families of serums, each chosen according to the desired texture and the skin's specific needs. Water-based serums for targeted concerns, high-tech formulas to stimulate the skin deeply, bi-phase serums that combine hydration and nourishment, or oil-based serums that strengthen the skin barrier—all play a complementary role in building healthy, balanced and radiant skin over time.

WHEN: Morning and/or evening, after applying lotion.

Water-Based Serums – Targeted Solutions

Water-based serums have a lightweight, fast-absorbing texture. They quickly address specific concerns such as radiance, blemishes, soothing or visible signs of aging.

FOREVER YOUNG Anti-Aging Serum — IREN Shizen

FOREVER YOUNG Anti-Aging Serum — IREN Shizen

A peptide-based serum that smooths and firms the skin

STAR LIGHT Brightening Serum — IREN Shizen

STAR LIGHT Brightening Serum — IREN Shizen

A niacinamide serum to reduce dark spots and restore radiance

CLEARER DAYS Blemish Control Serum — IREN Shizen

CLEARER DAYS Blemish Control Serum — IREN Shizen

Calms inflammation and helps prevent future breakouts

KEEP CALM Soothing Serum — IREN Shizen

KEEP CALM Soothing Serum — IREN Shizen

A soothing water-based serum for sensitive or reactive skin

High-Tech Water-Based Serums

These serums combine advanced technologies to stimulate the skin from within, including liposomes, encapsulated active ingredients and next-generation lifting formulas.

Regena Serum — WAPHYTO

Regena Serum — WAPHYTO

High-performance botanical anti-aging concentrate

Liposome Advanced - Repair Serum

Liposome Advanced - Repair Serum

High-performance botanical anti-aging concentrate

Deep Fitter - Corefit

Deep Fitter - Corefit

High-performance botanical anti-aging concentrate

Bi-Phase Serums

Bi-phase serums combine a water phase and an oil phase, delivering hydration and nourishment in a single step.

Antioxidant Booster Serum

Antioxidant Booster Serum

Rice oil & hyaluronic acid to protect and plump the skin

Dual-Energy Bi-Phase Serum

Dual-Energy Bi-Phase Serum

Camellia oil & aloe vera to revitalize tired skin

Oil-Based Serums

Rich in lipids, oil-based serums strengthen the skin barrier, deeply nourish the skin and help prevent loss of firmness.

Skin Jewel Oil Serum

Skin Jewel Oil Serum

A precious serum oil enriched with gold leaf

Repairing Night Serum

Repairing Night Serum

Gettou & tamanu to nourish and regenerate the skin overnight

5. Face Masks (Optional)

A weekly step in the Japanese layering ritual, face masks are not essential but provide an instant boost of radiance. Whether sheet, cream or gel masks, they are applied for 10 to 30 minutes to intensely hydrate the skin while targeting specific concerns.

All face masks are naturally hydrating, but some also help improve radiance, firmness, pores or visible signs of fatigue. This is a convenient two-in-one step that can occasionally replace both lotion and serum.

WHEN: Morning or evening

Camellia & Ginseng Eye Patches

Camellia & Ginseng Eye Patches

Hydrating and revitalizing patches for the eye contour

Camellia & Ginseng Eye Patches

Hyaluronic Acid & Lithospermum Face Mask

20 minutes for plumper, intensely hydrated skin

Ultra-Hydrating Sheet Mask

Ultra-Hydrating Sheet Mask

Organic cotton sheet mask infused with a rich hydrating emulsion

LuLuLun MOIST +45 Sheet Mask

LuLuLun MOIST +45 Sheet Mask

Pack of 32 daily sheet masks to hydrate and improve skin elasticity

Intensive Repair Radiance Mask - 6 Pieces

Intensive Repair Radiance Mask - 6 Pieces

Liposome-infused cotton mask for plump, radiant skin

24K Gold Sheet Mask

24K Gold Sheet Mask

Pure gold regenerating mask to restore the skin's natural radiance

LuLuPad Moisture & Elasticity Care

LuLuPad Moisture & Elasticity Care

Targeted hydrating pads to smooth and plump the skin

LuLuPad Sebum & Pore Care

LuLuPad Sebum & Pore Care

Targeted hydrating pads to smooth and plump the skin

6. Eye contour care

The eye contour area is a fragile and demanding zone. The skin is thinner here and more prone to dehydration, fine lines, dark circles and puffiness. Textures that are too rich or applied in excess can weigh down the tissues and accentuate these concerns. It is therefore essential to choose targeted, lightweight treatments highly concentrated in active ingredients, applied with gentle tapping motions to stimulate microcirculation.

WHEN: morning and evening

Liposome Advanced - Concentré Revitalisant Yeux

Liposome Advanced - Eye Revitalizing Concentrate

Intense 24-hour hydration, a refreshed and smoothed eye area thanks to bio-liposomes

TIMELESS ELIXIR Multi-Lift Eye and Lip Cream

TIMELESS ELIXIR Multi-Lift Eye and Lip Cream

A lifting cream with bakuchiol and a platinum massage roller

SKIN REBOOT Sérum antioxydant

SKIN REBOOT Antioxidant Serum

4% caffeine to help reduce puffiness, dark circles and signs of fatigue

7. Moisturizing cream

The final step of the Japanese skincare ritual, the cream plays an essential protective role. Contrary to popular belief, its purpose is not to deeply hydrate the skin: its larger molecular weight mainly helps seal in the hydration provided by the previous steps and protect the skin from external aggressors such as pollution and dust.

WHEN: morning and evening

Crème ultra-hydratante - RUHAKU

Ultra-Hydrating Cream - RUHAKU

A rich texture to preserve hydration throughout the day

Lait pour le visage Regena - WAPHYTO

Regena Facial Milk - WAPHYTO

A fluid and lightweight texture, ideal for normal to combination skin

Crème enrichie Regena - WAPHYTO

Regena Enriched Cream - WAPHYTO

A rich texture, perfect as a regenerating night cream

Kanazawa Beauty Face Cream - MAKANAI

Kanazawa Beauty Face Cream - MAKANAI

A melting mousse texture for a soft and comfortable finish

Liposome Advanced - Crème Concentré Réparatrice de Nuit

Liposome Advanced - Concentrated Night Repair Cream

A night cream with bio-liposomes to repair and revitalize the skin

Crème Nourrissante Adaptogène

Adaptogenic Nourishing Cream

A soothing balm-cream for sensitive and weakened skin

Rice Ferment Hydrating Cream

Rice Ferment Hydrating Cream

Lightweight postbiotic cream to strengthen the skin barrier

8. UV protection

In the Japanese skincare ritual, UV protection is an essential daily step. Even when the sky is cloudy, UVA rays can pass through clouds and windows: these are the rays responsible for accelerating skin ageing (wrinkles, loss of firmness, dark spots). Protecting your skin all year round helps preserve the radiance and youthful appearance of your complexion over time.

WHEN: every morning, as the final step of your routine (and reapply during the day if exposed).

Sun Shelter - Sunscreen - High Protection SPF50

Sun Shelter - Sunscreen - High Protection SPF50

SPF50+ PA++++ protection against UVA/UVB, ultra-light texture with no white cast, perfect under makeup

In summary

You now have all the keys to understanding your skin and the wide range of treatments available to you. It is up to you to choose what best suits your needs to rebalance your skin and improve its quality.

However, remember that your skin is also influenced by your lifestyle habits and your diet.

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